Water, though hydrating when taken internally, is actually drying to the skin, especially when soap is used. Soap and water strip the skin of it’s natural protective oils (sebum) and not only dry out the skin, but lead to oily breakouts, because the skin compensates for dryness by creating more oil. Soap and water also change the pH of the skin, oddly enough creating a favorable environment for bacterial growth. This increased production of oil combined with bacteria can result in acne. The only way to break the cycle is to “fight like with like”. Oils dissolve dirt and makeup without disrupting the sebum and pH balance established by the skin.
Why is maintaining the skin’s sebum layer so important? The skin is the largest and heaviest organ: constituting 15% of your weight and covering 12 to 20 sq ft. It is 70% water, 25% protein and 5% fat. It is the interface between the body and the environment. It helps rid our bodies of toxins and can absorb up to 60% of certain things that are applied, however, this is dependent on molecular size, weight and transdermal delivery system. Our skin produces oils that protect it from heat, wind, ultraviolet radiation and bacterial invasion. Constantly washing the skin rids it of this protective mechanism.
Water based cleansers change the pH of the skin which invites unfriendly bacteria to inhabit the surface of our bodies. Oils maintain the skin’s slightly acidic, protective mantle so healthy probiotic colonies can flourish. The cells of our bodies are 1/10th human and 9/10 bacterial, the majority of which inhabit the skin’s surface, mucous membranes and intestines. We are learning more about how friendly flora actually help us stay healthy which makes proper skincare that much more important to our total body health and not merely a cosmetic fix. Sebum also has a certain sun protection factor (SPF) that helps repel harmful rays while allowing our body to metabolize sunlight and produce immune supporting vitamin D. I would suspect over washing could make one that much more susceptible to absorbing harmful UVA/UVB rays, although I have not read anything to that effect (it is purely my intuition). All of these are reasons why oils have been used traditionally to care for the skin.
Plant based oils have a long history. In addition to their culinary use, oils like olive oil were used medicinally, as well as in ritual purifications (anointing).Ancient Greek athletes covered their bodies with it, believing it gave them strength (probably the polyphenols delivered transdermally). They also cleansed with oils using strigils to scrape the excess and exfoliate dead skin cells as depicted in this image: Ancient Egyptians would place scented oil cones on their heads that would gradually melt and cover their skin with fragrant unguents. Ayurvedic medicine uses oils to heal and balance the body.
The oils I use come from cultures that have included them in their diets for centuries, have been grown organically and extracted using traditional cold pressed methods. Proper extraction preserves the phytonutrients and prevents early oxidation. Olive oil from the Mediterranean, shea butter from West Africa, argan oil from Morocco, neem oil from India, marula oil from South Africa, virgin coconut oil from the Philippines, macadamia and kukui nut oils from Hawaii, rose hip seed oil from the Andes. The use of oils in traditional cultures around the world is ubiquitous.
So what is the best way to cleanse the skin? I have devised a unique routine I call Water-Free Oil Cleansing (TM). Unlike the typical oil cleansing method (OCM), my method does not use water which ultimately defeats the purpose of using oils to cleanse in the first place.
Before retiring at night, pump some oil onto two cotton pads (or the corners of a clean washcloth) that have been sprayed with toner. The toner helps “activate” the oil so the cotton won’t stick to your skin and dirt/makeup/dead skin cells are are loosened.
Gently press and roll the cotton pads/over the entire face and eyes, not forgetting the neck. If you have eye makeup on you will have to work a little harder to remove it and if a little gets in your eyes, it’s ok, it won’t hurt.
Blot excess with a tissue.
Follow with a spray of toner.
Go to bed. Do not use creams or night creams as they can block the pores that are working so hard to eliminate toxins through respiration at night.
In the morning spray toner onto face. Run a clean wash cloth under hot (not scalding) water. Always use a freshly laundered washcloth because used washcloths are breeding grounds for bacteria due to the moist environment which allows microorganisms from sloughed off skin cells to proliferate (YUCK!). Wring out and place on face. Repeat three times so pores can open.
Scoop out some moisturizer using spatula (this reduces the introduction of bacteria), distribute onto fingertips, then pat, pat, pat all over your face, neck and decoletee.
For women, I recommend doing a light circular breast massage with the cleansing/body oil at this time. It helps increase circulation throughout breast tissue.
Allow moisturizer to settle in before applying makeup. I usually get dressed at this time.
Cleansing with oil can be done all year and is beneficial for all skin types, especially oily! It is probably the single most important step towards maintaining lifelong healthy skin.
Great post! I really like your routine and the diagrams of your cleansing/moisturizing method. My combination normal/oily and break-out prone skin really responds well to hazelnut and kukui oils. Which oils do you prefer for each skin type?
You’re on the right track using hazelnut oil as it is what I use in my Summer Lavender moisturizer (also for oily/break out prone skin). It is considered a “drying” oil and somewhat astringent. For Autumn or sensitive skin I like the combination of virgin palm and pomegranate. They are emollient, healing and full of beta carotene (virgin palm is a bright orange and very healthy to eat as well). For winter/dry skin I use macadamia and rose hip seed oil because they are closest to the skins own sebum and very rich. For spring/balanced skin I like evening primrose which is rich in gamma linoleic acid.
Thank you, Maggie, very good information! I like to use each new carrier oil and butter that I encounter alone on my skin – with no essential oils or any other added ingredients – to observe exactly how my skin responds. It’s been a great way to really get to know each oil! I’m really enjoying macadamia right now as a body moisturizer; it’s so deeply nourishing and takes care of any dry spots.
I love the post & the products!!! I have been using the rose toner, oil & cream because my skin used to get so dry & flaky every winter. Now that I’m using Lalun products this doesn’t happen – my skin looks & feels hydrated, soft & supple too.
Thank you Lisa for your kind comments, friendship and support. You were there when I made my first batch of cream in 1995 and gave them as Christmas gifts to our office mates at RAMSA. It’s been a long journey going from being an architect to starting Lalun as a business instead of a hobby.
I hope you and your dearest have a wonderful New Year!
What a nice post! I have been using nothing but olive oil for years to clean my face and my skin has finally settled down and never looked better!
Thanks for sharing your experience. Seasoned “oil cleansers” like us have to spread the word!
Great article and I would love to start trying cleansing with oil as I’ve heard so much in the past few years about it. What do you recommend I do at night since I tend to shower and wash my face in the shower. Should I just leave all my makeup on and shower then do the oil cleansing after wards? Or should I do the oil cleansing before entering the shower? But then I might get my face all wet again. Sorry, this is probably a stupid question. Would love to get some advice though 🙂
Thanks!!
All questions are valid! Definitely cleanse with oils to remove dirt and makeup before showering at night (follow the directions in this post). Apply an oil based serum afterwards (check my website if you’re interested in what I have to offer http://www.lalunnaturals.com. Look under Seasonal Skincare and you will find a heading for Treatment where I’ve listed my serum). In the morning do the hot towel method to open your pores before putting on your moisturizer.
Good luck and thanks for visiting.
This is interesting as I have never heard of this method of cleansing your face/skin with oils. Not only that, your diagrams are fantastic !
Thanks dkchocoman! One of these days I will do a quick video demonstration.
Does it matter what kind of oil you use .i.e olive, palm, safflower, virgin, regular , cold pressed?
Any oil can be used as long as it is cold or expeller pressed. Make sure to never use oil that has turned or is rancid as free radicals formed during oxidation will attack healthy skin cells. This goes for oils you consume as well.
[…] lesson I learned was the importance of oils for the skin. In the mid 1990’s nobody dreamt of cleansing with oils, let alone using them as moisturizers. The common preconception was that oils would clog pores and […]